Glasgow Part 2

9th Sep
Glasgow is a very different city to Edinburgh. Lots of old red sandstone buildings, rather than the cream/grey, but also a much greater mish-mash of styles from all eras. Far less of a tourist city, and the locals are much harder to understand - the accent is so much thicker than what you hear in Edinburgh. Glasgow's inner city is much more sprawling, so we have walked heaps the last couple of days, as well as using the subway. In contrast, Edinburgh's New and Old Towns are neatly compact.

Still gloomy today, with persistent rain this afternoon, which the locals apparently refer to as dreich (dreek) but that hasn't deterred us. We caught the subway across (or more correctly under) the river to the bizarrely named suburb Ibrox (Gaelic but sounds like a tech product!). The is home to the Rangers Football club, and the modern riverside development that includes the Science Museum and BBC Scotland.

Dining Room - Credit: J

Our destination however was Bellahouston Park, home to the Charles Rennie Mackintosh designed "House for an Art Lover". This was only built in the 1990's but was done so using plans, designs and drawings done by CRM and his wife. The design was developed for a German architecture competition in 1901, whose brief was to design a modern country house "for an art lover". The Mackintoshes didn't win, but mainly because they failed to submit all the necessary drawings. The organiser praised their work, and had it published. In the 1980s, a Glasgow architect came up with the idea of having it built, and it was completed in 1996 and is used for weddings, art classes etc. The furniture, stained glass panels and light fittings were the highlights for me.

Riverside Museum and Tall Ship - Credit: J

We took advantage of the cafe at the house for our daily scone and tea before hurrying off in the rain to the Clyde River waterside. We'd discovered a sightseeing boat trip and as we're suckers for boat trips, we were keen in spite of the weather (the boat wasn't covered). It took us up past the old dry docks to some of the last working shipyards where the HMS Trent (navy in shore patrol boat) is currently being built. I was amazed at how under develops the whole area is, and how under-utilised the river is - no bars, cafes, few apartment complexes and no other boats at all. I guess it will happen eventually. It was also sad to see some of the historic buildings, such as the old pump house for the dry docks, falling into total disrepair.

Old pump house - Credit: S

Thankfully, the dry, warm subway took us back to the hotel, somewhat soggy - the locals call this weather dreich (creek) - persistent cold drizzle.. After some R&R, we met up with George and Megan for drinks before heading off to the Shish Mahal restaurant. This is supposedly the restaurant where the popular chicken tikka masala was invented. Wikipedia says that Mr Ali made up the sauce in response to a customer's complaint that is chicken tikka was too dry, so he threw together some canned tomato soup and cream with spices. They're now trying to get official status for Glaswegian Chicken Tikka Masala. True or not, is was a great meal!

10 Sep
Off to Islay today. We taxied out to the airport to collect our rental car, then headed north. The route would take us past Loch Lomand, to Inveraray, then Tarbert, finishing at Kennacraig where the ferry leaves for the island. As we'd done this trip only 2 years ago, it was all very familiar.

Bedroom, The Hill House 

First stop, however, was yet another Charles Rennie Mackintosh house in Helensborough, not far from Glasgow. This one was designed for the Blackie family and built in the 1920s. Again, CRM went beyond the standard architects role, designing furniture and light fittings, and Margaret created her decorative gesso panels. Although the family sold the house and the furniture, the National Trust has managed to get much of it back, and the house has been restored back to its original state. I loved it, especially as it was a family home rather than an artificial museum construction. Again no photos allowed, so stole one.

Loch Lomand - credit: J

We stopped on the shores of Loch Lomand, at Firkin Point, for a quick photo op of the loch and Ben Lomand towering behind. My mother was always very fond of this loch, so I always like to get down to the waterside, with its pebbled beaches and brooding waters. We also stopped at Inveraray where a wedding was in progress. There was a lone piper outside the church and all the male guests were wearing the kilt, as were the little page boys.

We met up with George and Megan in Tarbert, a small harbour town on Loch Fyne and a real favourite of ours, with its dark, oily water reflecting the brightly coloured harbour buildings and boats.

Tarbert - credit: J

There is a small castle ruin on the hill above that has links back to Robert the Bruce. Last time we were here, we clambered up to it, but this time, we did the grocery shopping for our week on Islay instead Tarbert is also where George's parents were married and so a pilgrimage to the church was in order. Another wedding had just concluded, and again lots of kilts.

Tarbert - credit: S

The ferry trip takes 2 hours and was very smooth, at first due to the loch, and then Islay's shelter from the Irish Sea. We arrived in the near dark and pouring rain, and after a slight navigation error, we found the cottage at the end of a long "unmade" road (love that local term, better than unsealed - makes it sound like a rumpled old bed!). And speaking of bed....